• 74 Posts
  • 354 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
cake
Cake day: July 23rd, 2023

help-circle





  • I didn’t do it on purpose. It just happened. I guess living out in the sticks does help: it’s not like we don’t have electricity or internet out here, but the first neighbor is 3 miles away, the town is 5 miles, and we have real starry nights here. So it’s quite easy to turn off the light and experience a, quiet peaceful night at the hours at which sleep should be happening naturally.

    I fall asleep around 8 or 9 pm and I wake up around midnight or 1am, watch something quiet and peaceful so I learn something interesting without falling fully awake - and more importantly without waking up the missus - then I simply fall back asleep until 5 am.

    I live above the arctic circle, so when it’s winter, I usually sleep longer. And when it’s summer and it’s daytime all night long, of course I sleep less. But on average, I sleep 2 x 4 hours per night. I feel just as refreshed as when I slept 1 x 8 hours. But perhaps feel less “disconnected”, if that makes any sense.












  • Clones made in Draft can be resized in the data tab. This is super useful for creating offsets.

    Yeah I’m aware of the resizable Draft clones. But in my case, it’s not helpful: in the case of the letter R for example, if I shrink it, the outside of the letter creates a gap but the inside of the letter invades the shell’s material. What’s needed here is moving surfaces inward - meaning outward vertical features move inward and inward vertical features move outward (and horizontal surfaces stay put) which is quite different from wholesale resizing.

    You insert this print as you would with a nut or bearing inserted into the paused print and continue the print

    I thought that’s what you meant. This is WAY too labor-intensive for my purpose: I print those tabs in batches of 256. I can’t imagine printing 256 tiny lettering inserts and manually placing them iin all 256 shells when the print pauses. That’s crazy!

    Is this what Prusa does for their parts? They must be using slave labor or something. Then again, at the price their sell their wares, they can take a few minutes to manually insert parts into their prints…

    If you have trouble with first layer crispness, print the lettering face up and use ironing to get a flatter crisper edge.

    Face up looks very nice, even without ironing. The issue is, the shells have very thin (one line width) walls, and those would need support. That means carefully removing 256 supports for each batch of tabs, trying not to break the walls. Crazy amount of work. Not to mention, the wall’s height needs to be quite precise, and supports usually screws up with vertical dimensions bad, at least for the kind of precision I need here.

    Someone else mentioned a 0.2mm nozzle. They are not as slow as one might imagine.

    The real issue is, this is the company’s printer. It’s used for printing jigs and things. I’m really trying to avoid changing how it’s usually setup because I don’t want my colleagues and I to change the nozzles several times a day. Also, my boss thinks the markings as I print them now are good enough - which is true enough - so I can’t justify the expense of a smaller nozzle.

    In short, I try to make the best of what the printer offers without modifying anything significant.




  • Make two separate parts in CAD. You can join them as separate shapes in a Parts Workbench compound or using the Mesh Workbench tools. Then upload the meshed file into the slicer. Empirically tune the gaps to suit your printer.

    The letters are separate parts - well, bodies:

    Basically I use the same shapestring to cut the letters into the shell and pad each letter as a separate body.

    I thought about somehow pushing the lateral walls of the letter recesses in the shell outward to create a gap around the letter bodies, but I haven’t figured out how to do that smartly in FreeCad. I have a feeling I should work on them as meshes, but I’ve never used the mesh workbench. Is this what you’re suggesting?

    Of course, I could also import the body in Blender and do that there.

    Personally, I like to use manual inserts or layer changes. Print your text separately in one color. Recess the text in negative for a few layers. Then add a print pause where you drop the lettering into the designed voids and continue the print, letting the voids and bridging bond the inserted letters.

    Wow I’ll have to re-read that when I’m fully awake: you totally lost me there 🙂

    If you design the 0,0 location of the parts so that they import into PS already aligned but as separate meshes, you can also use the elephants foot or other unique settings to manipulate how each section prints.

    They do import as separate bodies that are aligned. I did try messing around with settings in individual parts, but it didn’t do anything.


  • You’re correct. A 0.2mm nozzle would certainly improve things. But it would also make printing those tabs unbearably long.

    I wish my company had bought a 5-head Prusa XL: then I could have loaded black PLA and white PLA in two heads with 0.2mm nozzles, and a separate feed of black PLA in a third head with a 0.4mm nozzle for the rest of the parts that don’t need to look nice. But… ours only has two heads and it’s 0.4mm on both, because all the other parts we prints just don’t need finer details.