Hack the planet!

Underrated comment.

Exactly. I don’t know the expected life span of 3m 468mp but apparently I exceeded it in my environment and duty cycle. I’m still working on getting the residue off of the bed however, and I can say that where it stuck, and did not fail, it did an excellent job, even pulling off bits of silicone with the glue.

I have had it since probably 2018? It was one of the original x5sa kits. Honestly it has been a good platform to learn off of

Custom. It started life as a tronxy x5sa-400 but I think only 2 steppers and the frame are original still. I changed the bed to a 16"² *3/8 thick aluminum tool plate about 5 years ago. It always worked well for me. Unfortunately the silicone mat I used doesn’t seem to be made any more. I’m going to try one meant for a creality cr10 S4. I may have to re-machine the mounting holes for the thru holes on the mat tho.

cd …

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My company uses a VPN where the client is so slow inside the VM it is functionally useless. 99%of the time I can still get away with it because my connection amounts to a couple of telnet sessions, but when I actually need data or a spreadsheet or something transferred local, I need to fire up windows directly to snag it.

Sonicwall has a VPN client that will run fine on Linux (or so they say), but the company won’t switch over to it. And sonicwall considers the windows only version eol and won’t add a Linux version

I got tired of windows updates breaking my dual boot. After some research I found that it’s possible to have two uefi partitions: one for windows and one for Linux. It’s not standard but there is nothing expressly written into the efi spec that prohibits it. And it just works. My bios doesn’t care, and works with them both just fine.

I only use Windows for that 1% of business stuff I can’t accomplish in a vm under windows. Invariably after I boot into widows once ever 3 months it installs so.e update and would kill my ability to boot into Linux. Since setting up 2 partitions I haven’t had this problem.

The best advice I got was to periodically delete your current account and create a new one. Then remove any association you have with the old account: history, password managers, etc. Yes, that accounts comments may live on for ever in some archive, but removing your association with it goes a long way towards plausible deniability. If your super paranoid only access Lemmy through tor going forward.

shocked Pikachu face.

Oh wait this is 4chan, right?

ShockedPikachuFace.webm

I don’t know. I’ve use this method several times and I’ve never had a problem. I probably should have specified that I’m in the states so 450° f versus 200 or 210° c that your printer runs at isn’t a huge difference. Sure. You run the risk of some fumes, but your printer is already belting the plastic. In that temperature. You need to go a lot hotter than 400° in order to set it on fire. It’s a lot safer than using a blowtorch

put them on a sheet of aluminum foil and put them on a cookie tray in your oven. set the oven to 450 degrees and bake it for a half hour plus. everything should melt out of it. you could even suspend it with a rolled up piece of foil under it. depending on the wires your thermistor may suffer but the heating element should be fine. tho, your thermistor probably will be okay too as it looks like it has silicone covering the wire.

I really like the orbiter 2.5. it’s not as light as the nimble but it is still tiny. I like that it is open source and they really have thought to put a bunch of engineering in to the gear workings instead of just using clone bonditech gears. It cost, like, 48 USD to get from AliExpress and is definitely high quality.

Thh Hero Me mount seamed like a good choice as well. It was a huge pain in the a$$ to assemble tho, not that I am complaining. The way it mounts to the carriage means you can’t just assemble and mount (at least with my old tronxy carriage plate). The included adapter design that comes in the file package didn’t quite work correctly and I didn’t realize that until I was all disassembled. There is a magnet mount version that would probably have been a better option. I’ll probably print one to have as a spare if I ever need to disassemble the mount. Other then the mounting tho I really like the design and thought that went into it by mediaman.

Loops.video maybe?

I always just use

find | grep -i <partial file name>

It’s the pyramid scheme of religion: you only get saved if you brought a bunch of people to the religion cult. Only 144000 people will be saved. At a certain point there are no more people to bring to the cult and the bottom ones/newest initiates won’t have anyway to make money get saved

It’s easy to get out of hand when modding your printer. When I first got my tronxy in 2017 or 2018 the only planned mod was to put a duet 2 clone in instead of the garbage chitu control board. But the extruder sucked as well. Clone slice mosquito fixed that. Then I realized the extruder drive had a 700mm Bowden to the print head, and I wanted to print fast, so I asked Santa (my wife) for a zesty nimble (this was years before the orbiter direct drive). I had 3 vslot wheels disintegrate in a week and voron was using a cheap but high quality linear rails so why not? Then I built a couple of industrial kit printers for a friend, modix and raise3d. They weren’t much more complicated then what I had, and I’m learning some cad so I designed a quad z system with rails and smooth rods like the modix. I had another fried edm machine part of the z sleds. It was so over engineered that I needed to put a bed worthy enough in top and that was the 400mm 3/8" thick tool plate. A heater to match, 400mm ac bed topped with 1/4’ borosilicate glass.

This took time over several years. I would grab my z motion control and publish it somewhere because it’s pretty simple but very effective.

Anyway… It has been a lot more fun and educational modding the printer then making silly doodads and fidget toys with it for sure.

Perfect! I will read through the site for some insight.

I didn’t change the extruder, I just changed the driving motor. There is the chance of backlash because of the way the drive cable works. I suppose it could be wearing out … or I am getting a lot of back pressure in the mot end causing it to slip. I plan on taking apart the nimble and replacing the bearings and relubing everything tonight or tomorrow. Plus a pid tube, if I am running too cold or something. Duet has changed their pid model several times and I haven’t retuned it in several firmware upgrades

There is the flex3drive… Pretty similar in design. They claim the number is a copy of their extruder. Dunno if it is or not.

I think the nimble never really caught on because of cost more then anything. Also it’s not ideal for an enclosed printer as the drive cable needs room to move. I just use it to support my wires and my reverse Bowden tube tho.

Each corner of the bed has a linear rod running up the clot, a lead screw in the middle, and then a had mounted 8 mm smooth rod on the other side.

My thought as well is I have a bent screw or something out of alignment but the bed feels like to moves without shifting back and forth.

Also, the frequency of the banding is different each time, even though I am printing with the same speed and settings each time.

I do have two different lead screw couplers on it (the spring style and the one with the rubber star in the center). I have the parts to make them all the same., so maybe I will give that a try and check my lead screws alignment at the same time.

Any recommendations on an anti-wobble nut that is printable or inexpensive?