I really like elegoo rpetg. It really likes moisture, though. Not a problem for me with my redneck dryer, though.
I’ll be making a video with my setup soon.
I had a bunch of rolls of plain petg, and dumped them on a second hand market. Never looking back.
Also, Sunlu PLA+ 2.0. Great PLA.
I want to try Polymaker HT-PLA-GF. High temp resistance (150°C) right off the printer, more if annealed, and glass fiber. Should be a great replacement for many engineering filaments, but printable on vanilla printers without enclosure/filters.
Epoxy can be a bit of a crap shoot with plastics. It works wonderfully for some, a not at all for others. I have worked a lot with epoxy and plastics are always a “try somewhere else in the part” thing. Also, if there is grease on the part" forget it. Even with epoxy especially formulated for plastics.
If all you want is to use the epoxy as a filler, it may work.
I have searched aliexpress, and there are kits for around 17€. I don’t know what the shipping and customs are where you live.
Isn’t that the 3 minute rule they talk about in anti-procrastination methods?
I use Xpenology on an HP Gen 8 microswrver, a pretty nifty piece of kit. Works great, but setting up and upgrading versions can be a rather involved process.
Gamer desktops tend to be power hogs. Running them 24/7 can rack up some hefty power bills, plus noise, plus space, plus other tradeoffs.
Better a used thin client.
If you have a 3d printer, or access, o know someone willing to print for you, there are many free models out there
Definitely an option, but for the price of a Pi with all the extras, case, power supply, etc, you can get a used thin client that is way more capable.
There is a guy on YouTube that often reviews these things, and discovers some models that are surprisingly capable.
Synology publishes a list of certified non-synology drives, and warns you that drives outside the list are not recommended, but, at least in non enterprise models, allows them to be used. I believe there is some rather easy way (some config file change or the like) to circumvent the limitation, but yeah, dick move.
Bargaining chip. Hehe, I see what you did there.
Tesla sells itself as a technology innovation company, but it sells hype.
Should have gone with Babirussas
Tell us tomorrow
I’m offended by the attention deficit and the disorder part. I don’t have a deficit, I have an abundance of attention, it’s just not linear. I have parallel attention, not serial. In my close circle I’m the guy people often go for answers, because I often have them, albeit often somewhat superficial, because it’s near impossible to go deep in any subject, unless hyperfocus kicks in.
When I was in the army, my sergeant’s favorite phrase was " elucubra, don’t think", which looking back is kind of ironic, as I was in a scout unit, and we were expected to go behind enemy lines and think outside the box to find ways for the company to breach the lines.
Is that compatible with other brands? I believe most MMUs are only compatible with their own printers. That’s another advantage of INDX, and other toolchangers I’m sure are in the pipeline. I’m going to be installing an INDX in my heavily modded Ender 5 Plus, and if I ever decide to sell it, or retire it, I know I’ll probably be able to carry it over to another printer.
Oh, I understand that perfectly well. The question is: that thing is a tethered balloon. If they expect to have it float 10 Km up, it has to be tethered with a cable at least 10Km long, which should be able to withstand the forces created by wind resistance, plus its own weight, and be conductive, so some lightweight cable won’t cut it, metal will have to be involved, and not some lightweight signal cable, but hefty metal. Will that thing be buoyant enough to lift that cable?
Is that thing going to be able to float itself and support the weight of the cables at the altitudes they talk about?
I’m thinking torque rather than speed. I have converted an Ender 5 Plus to Hybrid core Y, with the Endorphin mod and I’m mulling adding an extra stepper on the X, and increasing power on the Y, either with a larger Y dual shaft or adding an extra stepper on the Y in series.