A Reddit Refugee. Zero ragrets.

Engineer, permanent pirate, lover of all things mechanical and on wheels

moved here from lemmy.one because there are no active admins on that instance.

  • 14 Posts
  • 215 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
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Cake day: December 22nd, 2023

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  • How do you like your 08Max? I’ve been looking into getting a large format printer for automotive parts and it’s one of the most cost effective ones I can find on the market. Would like to know how it does for accuracy, eg how much fiddling do you need to get parts within a mm tolerance. And not sure on sovol’s firmware and parts availability.

    I’d have to add my own enclosure heater but I’m already building a design to add that to my x1c so that’s not a big issue.



  • Well seeing as the brim is pretty smooth and properly filled I’m guessing it’s not a machine bed leveling thing.

    Wondering if your print preset is messed up. Go to the Quality tab with advanced settings in orca, and near the bottom there should be “bottom surface flow ratio” as well as “elephants foot compensation” (i think, going completely from memory here) You may need to turn up the flow ratio and/or down the foot comp to get the bottom layer squeezed together properly, the defaults with the sv08 profile might not be right for your particular plate.


  • Is it underextrusion/too high gaps or overextrusion mountains pushed up by the nozzle? It’s hard to tell if there is actual space between the plastic lines. Is this leading to print fails or bad first layer quality when the part is removed?

    A tactic I’ve noticed in Orcaslicer, when using Bambu presets on my x1c, is to slightly overextrude the first layer. This forces the plastic solidly into a textured bed surface ensuring you get maximum hold. This leaves the first layer looking kinda shitty on top but fully filled in underneath. And it doesn’t do this for the brim either.








  • Whatever is cheapest. When youre first starting out basically any hardware will do, it just needs to boot Linux. As you progress and find more stuff to put on the servers, you’ll discover what you’re real hardware needs are.

    When I first started, it was a hand me down single core AMD Sempron machine (socket 754!) that I later upgraded to an Athlon64 and 4gb of DDR. I managed to bodge that poor thing into running a Minecraft 1.5.2 server.

    Personally I would stick with the i3 machine since I am assuming it’s an office PC that can be had for cheaper than a Pi 5 (which is quite inflated in price IMO). x86 still retains better software support vs ARM and they are significantly easier to attach large cheap storage to via SATA. Power cost will be greater but I doubt an office i3 pulls more than 70w wall power at full load.






  • lemmy.dbzer0.com - Anarchists who hate tankies and any rules except their own, which are different and therefore better

    I mean. The only real rules we have mostly surround don’t be a dick and the bare minimum to manage a public forum. If you can’t really pass that test then you weren’t welcome in the first place.

    Lemmy is what you make of it. You have to put effort into tuning your subscribed communities, blocklists, etc. There is no algorithm to filter the chaff for you. I see very little inter-instance drama these days because I’ve filtered it out.



  • What are you gaining by coupling them instead series? Are you trying to obtain higher accelerations? Never really heard of two motors before.

    As long as the steppers have their steps in sync, I think it should work. If the step positions are out of sync even half a degree you’ll be seeing motor heating and poor performance as the motors try to fight each other into position. But I feel like you won’t see as much speed benefit as you think since you’ll run out of belt tension and rail stiffness, causing unwanted vibrations and oscillation at higher acceleration.