… I was thinking about buying a 96GB DDR5 kit from the local computer store a few weeks ago, but wasn’t sure it was actually worth €700. Checked again now and the exact same product costs €1500. I guess that settles it, 32GB will have to be enough for the next couple of years then.

IIRC their web site used to make it sound like it was a paid product but it was always possible to get it for free. Can’t remember the exact details, perhaps something similar to those “name your price” softwares that have a pre-filled recommended value but it’s also possible to choose €0? I checked what it looks like nowadays and the Pro version does come up first if you go to downloads, and then there’s a free Core version below it.

Not sure if sarcasm, or if Oculus Studio games can be played outside Meta’s ecosystem :/

If I may ask, how old are you roughly? I’ve noticed my sense of balance is changing with age, probably for the worse like everything else :D But I’m not sure if that’s good or bad for not getting VR sickess…

It excels at flight sims, driving games. If there were really good mech games for it then it would be good at that.

I can imagine it’s awesome for those kind of games, but I get too much motion sickness. And getting a motion sim rig would make it even more expensive, even if I had the space for one.

I don’t disagree with that part of the observation :) I also think it’s going to be too expensive for the average gamer :( The HTC Vive cost $800 and was released close to the GTX 1080 which cost $600. If high end VR headsets follow a similar price development as high end GPUs, it would cost just above $1.3k based on the RTX 5080’s release price of $1k. Anything less that this and it has become relatively cheaper, even though it would still be too expensive for most people. On the other hand, I was surprised by how little the Steam Deck cost, I thought it was also going to cost more than it did.

It’s sad that the majority either won’t or can’t pay full price for products, and go for those that are discounted due to vendor lock and/or built-in ads.

If the Steam Frame ends up costing only $1k I think that’s a relatively good price, feels like everything else has doubled in the time since the original Vive was released. Obviously I hope for lower but I kind of expected it to cost at least $1.5k

Ah, multiple GPUs? For some reason I thought you meant that with exllamav3 you had managed to load a model which was larger than your VRAM.

I guess there’s some automatic vram paging going on. How many tokens per second do you get while generating?

Had several issues when upgrading to 41, so I only upgraded to 42 a month or two ago in order to give them time to iron out the bugs first…

I never got my OG Vive to work smoothly in Linux so it’s the last thing I’ve kept a Windows dual boot for. Would be nice if I could get rid of it when I upgrade headset, which I’ve also been reluctant to do due to uncertain Linux support.

Still are, but I guess a lot of people don’t know much about them

Filament not sticking to itself sounds pretty unusual… Found this review on youtube. The channel has 6 subscribers and I have no idea if it’s legit or disguised marketing, but all the comments mention similar problems as yours. There’s also this review, with more negative comments. One person says they managed to get good prints by raising the print temp even more, but don’t do that if you have a PTFE lined hotend. I.e. only try higher temps if you know for sure that you have an all metal hotend.

I’m not up to date on hardware, so I’ll refrain from recommending specific components. I went with AMD Ryzen CPU and Nvidia GPU (using closed source driver) last time I upgraded my PC and it usually works fine, though I know many recommend AMD GPUs nowadays for Linux. If €1000 is your total budget, it might be worth considering a second hand GPU. For example a used RTX 3080 goes for around €300 and they are still quite capable, though someone else will have to say if that’s enough for the flight sims.

One thing you might want to look up is if the game uses hardware raytracing, and if that works on Linux. Out of the games I play, World of Warships looks worse for me than what I see on youtube, despite that I have set all graphics settings to max. Maybe it’s possible to fix by configuring Wine/Proton/DXVK etc. I haven’t really looked into it, but just so you’re aware of potential issues.

I used this list for help when choosing a power supply, but I think that becomes more important if you buy a high end GPU.

I use Steam for almost all my gaming, and it makes running (most) Windows games a breeze.

So far that has never happened because I’m not using that much storage :) But I shut it down when I need to turn off the mains electricity, and for powering it on afterwards the fake wall can be lifted off. It’s just the area underneath the desk so the panel might be smaller than it sounds like, and it hangs on some hooks so it’s fairly easy to remove if you know what you’re doing. Painted in the same colour as the wall, and with some some random junk on the floor in front, it blends in quite well though. I think the risk of burglary is fairly low, so it’s primarily to soothe my own paranoia.

I mounted mine on the wall under a desk in a room with no other electronics, and then put up a fake wall in front of the server. It can draw in air from the sides, and exhaust upwards behind the desk. But the only real solution is offsite backup, which will also protect against fire and other disasters.

Maybe something is wrong with the script generating these test prints, if you don’t have any similar problems with normal prints?

In addition to the blobs in the middle of the circles, I think it looks overextruded/blobby every time it changes direction. E.g. if you look at the -20 sample, it looks generally underextruded as one would expect. Though it’s also blobby around the edges, where the lines make a U-turn. Since the printer usually slows down at turns (unless your acceleration is set insanely high) this could be an indication that you’re exceeding your hotends melting capacity, i.e. either temp is too low or speed is too high, so it would be interesting to know what you calibrated those values to. I don’t think this is usually associated with random blobbing in the middle of the print, but could be worth checking just in case.

If you have a PTFE lined hotend, this kind of blobbing can also be caused by bowden gap IIRC. Might be easier to provide suggestions and ideas if you added some information about what printer you have, what filament it is, and what your other slicer settings are.

If you specify a budget then people might be able to give some recommendations, if you like.

As for aesthetics, Fractal Design offer a few cases which look really nice, if you like the Scandinavian design style. The overview shows all cases with glass or mesh sides, but there’s usually an option to get an opaque door if you don’t want LEDs from the electronics shining through

My friends are currently throwing a tantrum because I won’t “just enable Secure Boot and run Windows” to play Battlefield 6 with them. But I’ve never felt that I must play a specific game, so the few ones who are incompatible (usually due to bad anti-cheats) have been easy to ignore. There are plenty of good games I can play on Linux.