That thing is a BEAST!
Just the processor alone: https://www.mediatek.com/products/broadband-wifi/mediatek-filogic-880
Throw in some SSDs and a Hailo M.2 neural processor card and you can do some REALLY interesting applications: https://hailo.ai/products/ai-accelerators/hailo-8-m2-ai-acceleration-module/
I got one years ago. Used it for quite a bit. Worked great, but I stopped using it when my daily computer didn’t have a USB-A port any more.
You do have to remember what each numbered button is for.
6 FIDO keys in one.
Groundhog Day with guns and aliens.
AWS salespeople, meeting customers today.
The minute the Pi4 compute module showed up, the jig was up.
For the secure boot scheme to be really secure, you have to generate a unique key for each device. Most vendors don’t bother because it means each firmware update has to be signed and encrypted for each unique device. This also means you have to have the infrastructure for device attestation. You can’t just stick an update file on a public S3 bucket or FTP site like the good old days.
Some end up reusing the same product key, so if it’s compromised, all devices in that family can be hacked. But even that’s too much for some vendors.
Instead, they just wing it, and go back to the bad old habits (no encryption, or symmetric keys embedded in firmware) that get them featured in DefCon presentations.
Screeching 9600 baud modems. Now with more emotion!
Y’all should check out Voyager for Lemmy. Very close look and feel.
The problem with these trackers is that the Bluetooth scanner needs to run in the background on the phone, which means you have to give the app a lot of privileges and the constant scanning can drain the phone battery more quickly.
Google designed a nice Tile/AirTag beaconing alternative called Eddystone that ran as a system service and was pretty well-optimized. Unfortunately, they shut the whole thing down, so it’s every app on their own.
There are programmable ones out there. I’ve had good luck with a developer-oriented brand called Blue Charm Beacons. There’s a small version with a button, but don’t think it’s rechargable. Or search for “Tile” on AliExpress.
How to tell if a joke is truly funny.
Still working out a few kinks.
Solution in search of a problem.
In most cars, there is an integrated antenna for all wireless signals. For example:
These are often mounted behind non-metallic surfaces (plastic bumper, spoiler, etc). You can try to cover them up, but it means you’ll lose all the other antenna functions.
Disconnecting at the other end can only take out cellular without affecting wifi, Bluetooth, etc.
Mind you, it’s not easy. There’s a wiring harness with a waterproof connector that eventually goes into the cell modem. You’ll have to find the right antenna pin and disrupt the signal. Different for every make/model and not possible without proper schematics.
A lot of cars do have EDRs (Event Data Recorders), but they only store certain events related to crashes so they can go back and establishes what was going on before an accident.
AFAIK, regular telemetry going out the cell is much more extensive, continuous, and realtime.
List of automotive connectivity module providers: https://www.evbusiness.net/ev-directory/automotive-lte-5g-module-manufacturers/
Find which one your car has. Then see if you can find a repair manual with schematics. Find where the cell antenna connects. Non-destructively disconnect it. This way your telematics won’t be affected. It will just look like you’re always in a cell dead-zone.
Edit: don’t do this if it’s a lease, a rental, or there’s a loan on the vehicle. If you own it outright and it doesn’t void the warranty, go nuts.
Kora fighting Aang? Who the hell thought this was a good idea? Completely tone-deaf.
Ask for a ride off-planet?