Complementary guide

I have 3 printers and first was the OG ender 3 pro with only couple of mods (mainboard and cooling duct/fan), while it is slower and needs more manual calibration, I get same print quality than bambulab A1. It is actually even better on overhang parts

I am mainly reading on iPad due to screen ratio, I’m self hosting yacreader library and use yacreader app (server is free, app is one time payment on iPad, does have an android/windows client but not developed as iOS version). If I remember correctly, I think there is also Panel on ipad that do the same (would need to check). On android, I need to check and can answer tomorrow (almost 1am here), could be cdisplayex but unsure.

i don’t know any on computer but some app offer that on android/ios. i guess they look for some kind of contrast pattern to determine each frame.

Did try and it does work really well on some but not all garphics novel / comics

For some reason, trakt si giving a 24h token… I just found this https://github.com/redd-ravenn/stremio-trakt-addon (but haven’t tried it yet) It has an automatic token refresh so in theory that should work.

Does it have access to boot menu? If so, change boot order so it goes to usb first. You will then only need to create a bootable usb stick with Linux on it

Emby was but not anymore (for a few years). Only jellyfin is open source

Since it just a remix, can’t you put original 3mf/stl file and add your version to the download section? If that’s work, just add to 3d model file title “by xxx” To give credit to original designer so they are no confusion between your files and the original designer.

https://www.tridimake.com/2016/05/3d-printing-cooling-with-air-pump-aquarium.html?m=1

Cooling duct are used to precisely cool down plastic right after it was lay down without cooling down build plate (to avoid warping issue), this enable you to print bigger overhang without the need of support which end up in greater details.

Unless you have knowledge to create CFD trace, I would avoid it, they were/are tons of poor designs like ring duct which are very ineffective/unprecise. You don’t need really high pressure but blower fan are better than radial fan for almost all designs is why you see them the most (they are also more than pressure which are to take into account but don’t recall).

As of reducing print bed, it doesn’t, But if you wish to full the plate with parts and use the “print one object at a time” setting, it will reduce the number of object you can put on a plate, otherwise it will knock down parts.

As an exemple, my first printer which was the OG ender 3 with petsfang duct get better overhangs than my bambulab A1 with stock duct.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8qnCQ7YZhVA

I’m using home assistant, with mqtt which acts for many things and I get notification in different way depending the needs. Could be home assistant app or telegram or lighting up some light or sending voice messages to a speaker. All notifications are triggered by automations looking at states. Haven’t done it but automation could be re launched automatically until (for exemple) I press a button or responding to telegram message

We also have the right to copy media we bought here. Nonetheless, you need to prove that you have bought media you have downloaded.

Edit: Sharing copyright media is strictly forbidden here, so even if you prove that you buy media, you are not allowed to torrent it.

We have something similar in France for more than a decade. As you are torrenting, you are obviously sharing your ip with other torrent clients and this is where they get you. The agency (used to be called Hadopi but they change their name and can’t recall the new one) is following some torrents, gets your ip from torrent clients and then ask internet provider to give name/address. You then received a warning letter, upon 3 letters received, you can get a fine or go to court.

No, there isn’t aac video . Your post mixed up, You are confusing audio and video codec and don’t give any details for people to help you out. Instead of ranting, ask for help with details (we are not on Reddit)

https://hackaday.com/2024/11/20/with-core-one-prusas-open-source-hardware-dream-quietly-dies/#more-734822

(I’m not English native)

One of the latest Prusa printer is closed source If I remember correctly Core xy

You are not completely wrong, they have one printer with closed sources.

This is mainly because consumer 3d printer have been developped by 3d printing enthusiast first and not a company, Prusa which was leader for some time used a lot of open sources project to build their printers. As it’s getting mainstream as time goes by more and more companies shows up with closed sources project sadly.

Garage ain’t good for printer, cold and humidity don’t mix well with 3d printing, your clogging could also come from the warp issue as print goes up, nozzle dive into printing area, it’s not able to extrude properly so melting plastic goes up and you get a clog.

Ringing is an artifact, which can be cause by speed, belt not tightened correctly, frame assembly. If everything seems to be correct, then you might look to see if your printer supports other firmware (some of them can help to reduce/eliminate it) https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0245/5519/2380/files/3d-print-ghosting.png?v=1681176108

See how the X seems to echo on the print

I don’t have this printer and those issues can come from different problems so hard to tell like this.

Warping may cause layer issues as seen on pictures, stabilising bed temperature could help using an enclosure or maybe by putting your printer elsewhere, especially if it’s close to a colder spot in your house. If the layer issues we see on that picture still there when there is no warping, then reduce speed as it goes up. Tall print will tend to wobble more, which can make nozzle hit print, also nozzle path will not be as accurate after some traveling which can end up with similar layer issues.

About your clogging issue, what temp (bed and nozzle) do you use for pla?

You also have a ringing issue