For a lot of technical things that need to keep stable I use ASA these days. While PETG and PCTG (I mainly use PCTG these days instead of PETG) are cheaper and a little bit easier to print, I have found PETG to be too UV suspectible over time - unless there are additives in it- and I had some parts printed in PETG and exposed to the sun indoors (exposed spot close to the window,but under pressure,like your desk leg) loose strength. While ASA is more expensive and a little bit more difficult to print, but there are versions who are extremely easy to print these days. (But get a proper exhaust / filtering solution) and I simply want things to “work” for a long time. ("Do it right once*-mentality probably) The mixture of the mechanical strain and UV+ temperature seems to be the issue and ASA tolerantes that better.

For laundry detergents PETG should be no issue, wouldn’t use PLA,though. DO.NOT.USE.FDM.PRINTED materials for anything that touches your food unless you have done a lot of research. Don’t trust the" no issues" fanboys.

3. That’s ASA. Most definitly. If you need more structural strength use something with CF. If that isn’t enough maybe PC/PBT CF - but that is overkill…

To be honest: For that money I would rather go for another 50- 100$ if you can somehow afford them and consider a centauri carbon 1.

They are decent, work out of the box, now offer a open source firmware and you are set to print basicay everything beside automatic multicolor (which might or might not come…very likely not ). But they are good for all technical filaments, they are fully endclosed,etc.

Don’t get a refurbished printer. Never.

And stay away from Bambu unless you are aware of the walled garden.

As the original link has been taken down and your advice is still very valid just one point I wanted to add: This is valid UNLESS it’s from someone whom you know well enough that they tell you the truth and knows what they are doing - in that case it can be a good idea to buy a used printer from someone who knows what they are doing and who has ironed out the teething problems some machines have and can provide advice if something goes wrong.

I was luckily enough to do something similar (with my CNC-machine,though. Standard MPCNC,but the friend I got them from is a pro - he designs his own mainboards and stuff - and would have been able to fix some issues myself without him/would have become frustrated) once and was able to help out a friend this way - he got a nice, highly modified but working very well Anycubic (back then one of the most reliable models…) and I got money for the next machine.

Otherwise: your advice is very valid. I also fucked up in that regard once.

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Yeah,Netbox is also my main solution, combined with forgejo repo.

Works very well.

Stinky is an understatement - ABS is literally toxic (enough that a longer print can kill a small bird in the room) and while ASA is toxic as well, it is less so.

Nevertheless both require a good exhaust/filter solution.

Funny enough it was quite the opposite for me I had horrible experiences with eSun(and still have them when I open a role that is still orginally packed from my storage) and switched to Sunlu/Jayo and did not have to many issues (as in: Two. Once a order was massively delayed (not their, something went wrong at the parcel service), the other time a role was not correctly packed (in one of the triple packs) and they send another three role package.

Print wise they are by far the most printed filament for us and we got through upper double digits by now.

For PLA: SUNLU/Jayo(same company) for standard stuff Polymaker for special stuff

PCTG: Extrudr

ASA: Black Forest Filaments(if in Europe), Extrudr, Spectrum

Avoid PETG and use the even better PCTG.

Jayo is literally SUNLU,btw.

Same here - using it on various Nvidia based machines without any issues.

So far that’s not working to much,but development is fast it seems

Basically a book downloader that connects to various sources, mainly Annas archive, and then hands the downloads over to CWA(or booklore). While still heavily under development it works.

https://github.com/OrwellianEpilogue/ephemera

Calibre Web Automated and Ephemera. But looking to switch to Booklore some day,just haven’t had the time.

Mealie is far superior to Tandoor,imho.

Literally what I am doing,but has it’s drawbacks and is hard to sell to other people that are less technically inclined. And sometimes time is money…

And it lead to me not finding proper wodden frames which led to me needing a CNC… Etc. Etc.

You know how it goes.

Meanwhile all I want is a relatively cheap tablet sized display/AIO that can be powered by PoE and has no battery for displaying Home Assistant. (With ePaper it becomes totally crazy) Whoch seemingly is impossible.

I have a similar solution and waydroid works pretty well for a lot of things.

Thanks a lot. I expanded it a little bit.

Basically:

• Small proxmox node (Zimablade) that basically does only operate a Proxmox Backup Server for local clients and fast backup.

• Offsite ZFS send to a VPS I operate for that purpose. As well as Proxmox Backup Server for VMs,etc. Basically meant as a fast recovery option. (Layer7)

• Offsite S3 storage backup to a different provider from above. Meant for a medium term backup. (Hetzner and IONOS)

• Portable HD: I have two different portable HDs. One is hooked up to the Backup server, the other one is in a lock box in my banks safe. The “connected one” does a weekly backup (and is switched off in between). Once in a while (around 6 to 12 weeks, with 12 weeks being the hard maximum) I take the active one to the bank and both drives switch places. That provides a full backup. (WD My Book and Seagate Expansion - the differrnt manufacturers are intentional)

• Last line of defence: The real real important things (photos of life events-weddings,etc.- important documents,Password DBs) etc.) get burned on a M-disc Archive blue ray. They are also in the bank safe and at a secure third location. They are more meant for “shit hit the fan and I might not be there anymore,but maybe the kids want these”. Additionally they provide a defence against encryption viruses - write once reas many (WORM) has it’s advantages here.

This is another thing to consider: Have detailed descriptions for others how to retrieve your data in case something happens. I operate a private wiki (on an external server) that also gets saved into the M-Discs that has step by step instructions, as they might need to be followed by someone not that tech adept. (Like my In-Laws in case both my wife and I perish.), have notes in my password DB (Vaultwarden, which has a digital heritage/emergency access function and is also exported), in the vault, and a note in my will notifying people about this.

Edit: And: Test your recovery. Almost every data loss I have witnessed in the last years was a recovery problem. Missing encryption keys, data structure issues, etc. I have seen them all. Personally I try to recover a random file (as in: A script tells me which one) twice a year from every method and try a full recovery of each method at least once six month after introduction. Thst being said: It’s nice to have encrypted backups,but that doesn’t help if you can’t find the keys/the software does no longer exist,etc. Currently a LOT of my clients have the same problem: They use Tandberg RDX for backup, including WORM. Now, Tandberg has gone bust and it’s not that unlikely that yhey won’t be able get another RDX drive in 5 or 10 years. Or 20. Which is the legal requirement for some official files here. Well,fuck. They needed to get additional drives asap when the bankruptcy became official.

Friends have used ancient LTOs and now face the same issues - LTOs are not downwards compatible. (That’s why I use “common” technology. It’s extremely likely that I will be able to find a spare BD drive in 20 years,etc.)