Step five:

https://www.sordum.org/downloads/?st-edge-block

Not in this instance in particular, but I have a copy of Fantasia (i.e. the recalled/rareish game, which makes this even more annoying) which also refuses to boot. I’ve never been able to determine why. The contacts look good, all the traces look good, no part of the board is cracked, and staring at it under magnification doesn’t reveal any of the pins on the chips lifted or anything. It’s the only cartridge game I have for any system that doesn’t work. 'Tis a mystery.

I never used the one on the CD case, I just used all ones. Or 123451234512345, etc. for Windows 98.

Suggestions here and elsewhere to have no infill on tall structural components that will have large flat surfaces such as large boxes and bins is hilariously bad advice. Yes, “StReNgTh aCtChUlLy cOmEs fRoM ThE WaLlS,” but unless you plan to use an absurd number of perimeters and probably not even then, you absolutely need to have some infill to connect the inner and outer walls, otherwise they will be prone to warp and collapse in on each other. If your item will be as tall as you suggest, this is likely to happen before the print even finishes. Given the shape of the bottom of most Gridfinity objects, printing it entirely with no infill is impossible anyway. You can’t have a floor suspended in midair of any significant dimensions without infill underneath it to build on top of.

You probably don’t need much infill, probably only 5 or 10%. But it’s going to have to be there.

Don’t overthink it. I print these relatively giant Gridfinity drawer shells standing upright, and I use 10% gyroid infill, 2 wall perimeters, and 3 top and bottom layers. It works just fine and they’re perfectly rigid enough to stack at least four units tall (the most I’ve bothered to hook together to far) while loaded to the gills with probably more weight than is wise worth of knives and nuts/bolts.

I tried to print one without infill precisely once, and it collapsed and failed after about 30mm worth of height had been built up. This was with PLA which is the most rigid of the commonly available printable materials; the issue would be even worse with other plastics.

All resistive electric heaters have the same efficiency, regardless of their shape, methodology, or what the manufacturer prints on the box. That efficiency is 100%, i.e. all of the electricity put into them gets turned into heat, one way or the other. The same amount of electricity (up to and including the locally specified legal maximum for a standalone appliance, which in the US is 1500 watts or roughly 12.5 amps) becomes the same amount of heat. It doesn’t matter if the manufacturer put “for large rooms” or “for small rooms” on the box, or what. 1500 watts is 1500 watts.

However in ideal conditions and specifically for the purposes of heating, a heat pump can achieve efficiency of over 100%. Which sounds impossible, but only until you realize that a heat pump’s method of operation is not to create heat but rather to move heat that’s already there from the outdoors to inside.

Nobody anymore, but even as of a few short years ago the Windows fanboys would crusade and do battle specifically against the Mac fanboys, for some reason.

I’m not exactly a fan of Apple, but I’m not going to go around automatically championing Microsoft because of it…

I’m still not convinced that the Apple Watch is even technically a good product considering the price vs. features vs. durability vs. etc. comparison with all of its competitors. It’s a successful fashion accessory.

It seems a frequent reminder is required that Apple is not a tech company. They’re a marketing company, and a very successful one. Whatever it is they actually make is a side project compared to trying to convert it into a status symbol that’ll replicate the popularity of the iPod and iPhone.

Now that is a Very Specific Object. Well done.

It’ll work.

I just installed plain old boring Debian on three (3) random decommissioned office PCs the other day and every single piece of hardware in them worked out of the box including the Wi-Fi cards.

Yes. You need to do it in a PowerShell, not a regular command prompt insofar as I know.

> irm https://get.activated.win/ | iex

Insert meme template here: Wait, you guys license your Windows?

You can’t run it on a Mediatek or a Rokchip or whatever?

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There were decades of development of touch screen devices with UI paradigms designed explicitly for touch. Notwithstanding all of the Palm and Symbian and Windows CE devices, I feel like I shouldn’t have to point out that the Nintendo DS came out in 2004, three years before the iPhone.

It’s just that these were resistive screens and stylus based…

Except for the LG Prada.

The laptop is expected to have a 14 inch, 2880 x 2800 pixel OLED touchscreen display with a 120 Hz refresh rate…

Square aspect ratio (nearly) gang!

I suspect this is just a typo, since it’s not consistent with the aspect ratio depicted in the mockups. But it would be rad if weren’t. And preferably without the stupid display hinge motor.

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Cripes, this argument again. Give it a rest already, people.

I don’t know about you but I’ve never used mine for combat and I’m unlikely to be in a position to try. Despite the inherent ridiculousness I do occasionally EDC mine, but mostly I use it as a folding camp knife.

There are oodles of other perfectly cromulent knives to recommend, of course (just ask me how I know!) but I zeroed in on this one for the sheer perversity of its selling price being near enough to precisely OP’s available figure.

If you’re going to be that way about it, might I recommend a Leatherman Skeletool which is also currently about $75.

An HOKC Finka-C is almost exactly $75 on Amazon right now.

Apropos of nothing, really.