Sure, but remember that a full on dock will make your Switch hotter (unless it’s actively cooled, which the original is not), and that may affect both performance (throttling might cause the games to stutter) and devices lifespan.

I don’t know about Steam Deck (so assume it should), but this one works with Switch 2 (and doubles as a capture card).

No, I think the only problem is that Switch 2 won’t output video via most docks

Try it, I was thinking the same thing once and it did turn out to be the case

Any chance your z-offset is making the nozzle too close to the plate/too high flow rate for it?

5 people demanding something is not an actual demand in this context;)

I’m not saying you do - just implying it’s pointless

lol, good luck with that. First of all it doesn’t really affect them commercially, second - there’s no single version/distribution to support.

There are also scripts to unlock upgrade on „unsupported” processors which still technically work with 11

Pressure them about what exactly? Making the product for Linux or extending Windows 10 support?

They should’ve put the stormtrooper helmets on.

But he was talking about Japanese trademark law

Also anger, despair and there are probably more stages to it.

Cool story bro, but why are you even here?

Probably even more with TOTK and satisfaction that comes from its building mechanics

„New Study Finds Even More Evidence That Gaming Can Improve Overall Happiness” - unless you’re playing Silksong :)

It’s just a different form factor of a PC

I have it working with a BTT Microprobe (which is very similar to CR-touch). It does not work with the PRTouch which comes with the printer (and is inferior anyway). Eddy is probably much better than either of those. I have the gantry mode printed and pre-assembled but decided not to go with it. Maybe someday if something breaks and I’ll have to tear printer apart anyway. When you’re saying extruder you mean the hotend?

I was able to get >35 (tested using Orca’s calibration) with CHCB-OT, but I doubt you can go much higher than that even with better extruder gears.

Can you point me at more info on how to do it on K1, and how does it help? From my end I’d like to recommend the glass bed mod for K1 (put in between the stock bed and magnetic sheet). The bed level is really great. ~0.1mm difference across the bed, no weird bends, no need to preheat (heat soaking?) in advance before leveling