

I was able to get >35 (tested using Orca’s calibration) with CHCB-OT, but I doubt you can go much higher than that even with better extruder gears.
I was able to get >35 (tested using Orca’s calibration) with CHCB-OT, but I doubt you can go much higher than that even with better extruder gears.
Can you point me at more info on how to do it on K1, and how does it help? From my end I’d like to recommend the glass bed mod for K1 (put in between the stock bed and magnetic sheet). The bed level is really great. ~0.1mm difference across the bed, no weird bends, no need to preheat (heat soaking?) in advance before leveling
I’m using a separate app for that, Nintendo should build something similar to Zelda notes app for this
It’s basically a new console. Consoles that have backwards compatibility used to have updates in such case sometimes.
Same!
I’ve been using thangs which used search everywhere, but now it defaults to searching only models hosted on itself so I’ve stopped using it.
I’ve been using thangs which used to do the same, but now it looks only at itself…no thanks
Games can have bugs crashing them on startup or any point of gameplay too. That’s just reality
Yet you seem to be repeating points made in the article, which simply seem to be wrong to me (and you saying your copy works confirms as much). This article (yes, I realise you didn’t write it and I am not criticising you here) seems to be nothing but fake news, simply made to generate clicks.
“Seemingly” might as well be “we did not bother to check”. Maybe someone did not read the info about virtual cartdridges, or whatever else. Has anyone really confirmed this?
I wonder how much would that cost, and how big are is that update. Seriously though some of Nintendo’s games are re-released as Nintendo Switch 2 editions on cartdridge and that solves the “issue” some might have
Lol, this article doesn’t say anything about that. It has a bait for the title and says the game needs an update to run on Switch 2. And you need to download it from the internet. How else would you want this update to be provided? On 500 floppy disks, USB drive or a tape?
…and you didn’t understand it. Thanks for letting us know.
Have you actually read this clickbaity article?
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What is the (approximate) ambient temperature of the room it’s being printed in? Are there drafts (wind)? Have you tried cleaning the plate and then using glue (which shouldn’t even be needed for PLA)?
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I have pretty much the same HW, thanks for recommendation. How are you running it on Linux? Never used it for gaming really.
I have it working with a BTT Microprobe (which is very similar to CR-touch). It does not work with the PRTouch which comes with the printer (and is inferior anyway). Eddy is probably much better than either of those. I have the gantry mode printed and pre-assembled but decided not to go with it. Maybe someday if something breaks and I’ll have to tear printer apart anyway. When you’re saying extruder you mean the hotend?