• lpinfinity@retrolemmy.com
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    6 hours ago

    Then there’s the og Xbox and it’s clock capacitor. Nothing like grabbing your console out of storage to find out it blew a cap and dissolved some of the traces on the PCB.

  • Wispy2891@lemmy.world
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    13 hours ago

    To be fair, there are tio many arcade boards from that exact era that have draconian DRM measures where if the CMOS dies, the decryption key is irreversibly lost, and it becomes ewaste

    • tiramichu@sh.itjust.works
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      3 hours ago

      Exactly. It’s not as if companies were being intentionally pro-consumer then any more than they are now, they just seemed that way as they hadn’t figured out how to tighten the screws as much, and especially how to do it cost-effectively in the consumer segment.

  • Furbag@lemmy.world
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    17 hours ago

    Sega Dreamcast is not an example of a console that I would describe as “built to last”. I had two and both of them died in the same way - the optical lens cracked from heat stress and stopped reading disks. There was never any warning it was about to happen, and no way to prevent it as far as I knew.

    As unlucky as I was with the Dreamcast, I made up for it by only ever having to buy one Xbox 360. I still own my original console which was never refurbished and never red ringed on me.

    • Frezik@lemmy.blahaj.zone
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      6 hours ago

      This is why SD card mods are important for optical disc consoles. The OG hardware just isn’t going to last.

      • Persi@lemmy.zip
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        12 hours ago

        I’m not sure where this idea comes from, the PlayStation had a bad reputation even when it was new.

        The optical drive would often fail and need replacement. There was a whole meme about people using the console upside down to combat this.

    • ⛓️‍💥@sh.itjust.works
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      19 hours ago

      The lasers can also weaken over time leading to issues reading discs. There is a small trim pot that can be adjusted to recalibrate it. You do want to be careful and only make very very small adjustments though.

    • doingthestuff@lemy.lol
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      19 hours ago

      I still have my original NES and N64 from when they came out. Both still work with zero maintenance. I used the N64 last week.

      • Buddahriffic@lemmy.world
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        17 hours ago

        Most problem those give tend to be turn it on and it says, “hey I’m not so sure you put a game in me, would love to play one for you, though!” Or “I think this might be a game or it might just be a weird blue pattern because the connection is there but only partially”.

        At least the NES was like that. You had to know the ritual to put the cartridge in correctly and that ritual changed. I don’t ever remember having a ritual with my N64.

  • eleijeep@piefed.social
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    23 hours ago

    But god forbid you unplug a controller while the console is switched on. Better know how to replace that fuse on the controller board!

    (If you just bridge it with a wire, I won’t tell anyone).

    • WaterWaiver@aussie.zone
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      19 hours ago

      I was young and did not have access to soldering irons. So I bridged the two pins with aluminium foil and sticky tape.

      It would slowly peel off and my controller would suddenly stop working mid game. I couldn’t reboot the console because I couldn’t save (no VMUs). So I’d fix it live – I’d leave the screws out of the case, jiggle my fingers in there and fix it.

      This was fine, worked for most of a year. Until I killed the console by accidentally touching the controller PCB to another PCB whilst doing this fix. I still have the corpse somewhere, to this day I still feel awful about it.

      • BenLeMan@lemmy.world
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        18 hours ago

        Live modding, huh? 😂 Takes me right back to my first PC, whose loudspeaker prevented me from covertly playing games when I was supposed to be sleeping. 😇

        So I opened up the case and figured out that the PC speaker lead had a detachable connector. And the case was flexible enough that if I didn’t put all the the screws back in, I could just reach in and plug or unplug the speaker. 👌

        Worked great, except for that one time I got shocked while blindly trying to finagle in the connector⚡🤯 (probably by the CRT assembly; this was one of those PCs that had everything incorporated in the case).

        Thankfully, it must have been all volts and no amps so I was OK, even though I let out quite the yelp. 😁

        • kossa@feddit.org
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          13 hours ago

          I did not know, that you could turn off the sound of a PC. But I needed Sim Tower to run overnight, to have enough money for the next floor the next day. That were some bad weeks without sleep as a ~11yo 😅

          That “bing, bing” and the sound of the elevators the whole night.

      • FlyingCircus@lemmy.world
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        14 hours ago

        Hi Zoomer! 👋 Believe it or not, those were all real words and some of us can still remember what they mean! Now excuse me, my back hurts and I need to lie down.

  • LiveLM@lemmy.zip
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    1 day ago

    If you’re wondering what this is about: The PS4 used to require its internal clock to be correct to play any game, even disc based ones, and the only way to do so is to connect to PSN, meaning that in a distant future when the PSN goes down (or Sony no longer allows PS4s to connect to it) all your games would become useless. And the worst part? They did all of this because of trophies.

    Sony has fixed the issue on Update 9.0, but the fact that it was ever an issue and caused by a totally non-essential feature is baffling.

      • Wispy2891@lemmy.world
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        13 hours ago

        Probably it’s like the Nintendo 3DS, the user facing clock is just an offset to the official internal timer, so when the user changes time, it’s just an aesthetic change and has no effect to time/date game unlock mechanics (mostly lPokemon games). When CMOS dies, internal clock resets to 1970, a clearly invalid date where all the signing certificates are invalid, and the user can’t set internal clock without hacking the console

      • lagoon8622@sh.itjust.works
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        20 hours ago

        If it can’t get an encrypted timestamp signed by a particular private key then it knows it doesn’t know what time it is

  • aeronmelon@lemmy.world
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    1 day ago

    Remember when printers wouldn’t even warn you that the ink was out? They would just give you a weird magenta ghost of what you were trying to print.

  • AceFuzzLord@lemmy.zip
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    1 day ago

    Okay, now I know why my Dreamcast keeps asking for the time and date every time I turn it on. Always wondered, but never checked because it worked regardless.

    • brax@sh.itjust.works
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      1 day ago

      The battery is soldered in, but it’s dead simple to desolder and replace with a proper battery holder so you can easily replace it down the road. Just make sure 6ou remember to use a rechargeable.

      • thatKamGuy@sh.itjust.works
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        18 hours ago

        TIL rechargeable CR2032s exist, and also that their output voltage is higher than standard ones and apparently may run the risk of damaging circuits?

        • LikeableLime@piefed.social
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          15 hours ago

          Rechargeable battery chemistry usually can’t exactly match the voltage on the old ones. I’ve seen problems with all sorts of stuff by switching to rechargeable AAs. They typically have only 1.2v compared to 1.5v of a regular AA.

          But the rechargeable coin battery mod for the Dreamcast is fine, I modded mine years ago and have had no issues.

      • AceFuzzLord@lemmy.zip
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        1 day ago

        Yeah, if I ever did that, I’d rather take it to someone who knows what they’re doing. I have little experience soldering and I don’t want to destroy something in my Dreamcast by accident.

        • brax@sh.itjust.works
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          21 hours ago

          That’s fair. I’d consider myself fairly new to it all, I’m not passing judgment but it’s worth checking out a vid on how to do… If you’ve used a soldering iron once or twice you could probably handle it.

          You may also want to (or have your person doing the work) replace the single-shot resistor fuse with a self-healing one while they’re in there. Both parts are on the controller board. The fuse is notorious for blowing, and that can make the whole system unable to detect your controllers.

          • LikeableLime@piefed.social
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            15 hours ago

            Yup I went through that and did the battery holder + rechargeable coin cell at the same time. Works perfectly, great advice.

      • Lost_My_Mind@lemmy.world
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        21 hours ago

        Um…are there different models of dreamcast? I changed mine a decade ago. Just popped out. Popped new one in.

        Probably gotta do it again if I were to play dreamcast again.

        • brax@sh.itjust.works
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          16 hours ago

          Yeah, there are different models. I have a first gen North American one. I didn’t realize some had swappable batteries.

  • sanity_is_maddening@piefed.social
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    1 day ago

    Is anyone else’s Dreamcast yellow now?

    I bought it in the year it was released and it was used quite a bit (euphemism) back then. But I dug it from the closet it was stored in and now is yellow. Remote control and all. All the consoles stored along with it still look the same. All the older ones looking the same as they always were, but Dreamcast decided to have that “we’re fucking old” moment with me. Haven’t tried turned it on out of fear of mortality being the next reminder it has in store for me.

    • ysjet@lemmy.world
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      20 hours ago

      Just as a quite warning- retrobright will make the plastic of the dreamcast white, but it will also make it more brittle, and it’s not a permanent solution. It WILL yellow again, and repeated applications of retrobright will make it more and more brittle.

      • sanity_is_maddening@piefed.social
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        20 hours ago

        Oh, thank you for the heads up. I got excited at the prospect of restoring it. I like to restore stuff when I can. Usually is more wood related items. Sad to hear this, but thank you for informing me though.

        Maybe I’ll just have it like it is. I’ll call it a “sepia vintage” look as a cool spin to pretend I’m not jealous that others got better and more durable plastic for the same price as me.

        Cheers and thanks again.

        • captainlezbian@lemmy.world
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          12 hours ago

          Fair warning it will also continue yellowing and getting more and more brittle if you do nothing. Plastic doesn’t biodegrade, but it does undergo aging in a way that makes it less durable than traditional materials. Wood can be kept from biodegrading, metal can be kept from corroding, but aging plastic just gets more and more brittle and just really wants to become microplastics

      • YiddishMcSquidish@lemmy.today
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        20 hours ago

        Soak the plastic in hydrogen peroxide and oxy booster stain fighter

        For the rest of you ADHD havers who don’t have the patience to get that write up to fit on your phone screen.

      • sanity_is_maddening@piefed.social
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        23 hours ago

        Wow. This has to be one of the most phenomenal hacks that someone has presented me in a long time.

        I had no idea of this.

        Thank you very much.

        • eleijeep@piefed.social
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          23 hours ago

          No problem, let me just say that I haven’t tried it myself but I’ve watched a lot of videos of other people trying it and the worst results that I’ve seen have been the ones using a gel that they paint onto the plastic and then cover in plastic wrap. This tends to leave a streaky effect because the substance is not equally thick in every area and so it has more whitening effect where it’s thicker.

          The best results that I’ve seen have been the ones that have completely submerged the plastic in a liquid peroxide solution, or have suspended the plastic above the solution to immerse it in the vapors that evaporate off from the peroxide (pure oxygen). These methods give completely uniform coverage so they whiten the plastic equally in every place.

          It seems that you also need strong UV, and people that live nearer the equator have better success using the sun. But in the absence of good UV lighting, heat also seems to have some effect.

          Good luck!

    • The Picard Maneuver@piefed.worldOP
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      1 day ago

      Mine’s still white, but I’d always heard there were different types of plastic used in consoles (and computer cases) back then, some of which would become discolored, and others wouldn’t. Might be true, unless anyone in your house has been a smoker in the last 25 years.

      • tempest@lemmy.ca
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        15 hours ago

        If I recall correctly it’s related to a fire retardant additive that oxidizes

      • sanity_is_maddening@piefed.social
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        24 hours ago

        No. No smokers. And the console was stored in the original box in a closet. Not in the corner collecting dust. So it must be the plastic it was used somehow. Sad. I always really liked the Dreamcast look. And it is still one of my favorite controllers after so many years.

        • SparroHawc@lemmy.zip
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          23 hours ago

          Look up a cleaning solution called ‘RetroBright’. It’s designed to remove the yellowing from the ABS housings of old electronics. I’m pretty sure the recipe for it is available free online, or you can order pre-mixed bottles of it. You have to be a little careful with it because it’s mostly hydrogen peroxide, but I hear it works great.

        • ysjet@lemmy.world
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          20 hours ago

          You are correct, it’s the plastic. Or rather, the fire retardant mixed into the plastic.

  • N3Cr0@lemmy.world
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    1 day ago

    Setting the clock on each boot, after the rechargable CMOS battery died, sucks. I speak from experience with Dreamcast consoles. Best you solder in a battery holder and put in a new rechargable coin cell. … or add a diode and put in an ordinary non-rechargable.

  • Zook3y@lemmy.world
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    1 day ago

    Man, I remember when I used to play the Dreamcast and awesome games like Power Stone 2 and Super Magnetic Neo! The little cartridge inside the controller was awesome too.